Posts Tagged ‘howto’
Saturday, February 21st, 2009
by Jesse Meradz
Woman is a domesticated animal. She gets a certain pleasure from caring and providing for her home, whether this be alone or shared, a bed-sitting room or a mansion.
They are made to contain a number of separate plastic pots and so are ideal for this purpose. As these herbs grow very quickly in winter because of the warmth of the house, they should be placed in a position where they will get as much light as possible and they should never be allowed to dry out. Keep cutting them and they will respond with new shoots. If you use more than the plant can supply it is a simple matter to dig another plant from the garden and pot this up so you are never without something fresh in this line. In fact it is a good plan to have several plants potted ready so that they may be brought indoors in succession.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2009
by John Happyman
Using Levington seed compost, fill to within an inch or so of the top an ordinary flower pot, a seed pan or box and level the surface.
Plants for our homes are so numerous, so easy to obtain and so inexpensive that only the keen indoor gardener takes the time and trouble to raise his own plants. Yet like children, they are so much nicer, so much more interesting and worthwhile if they are your own, of your own raising. Again, a considerable number of our indoor plants actually produce young plants by themselves, without any help from us, and surely we ought to take advantage of this particular assistance!
There are several ways we can grow our own plants and each method will be discussed separately. We can grow many of our plants from seed in exactly the same way that we grow plants for the garden.
Seeds for popular plants such as primulas, cinerarias, impatiens and cacti can be obtained from almost any seedsman anywhere, but seed for some of the more exotic or unusual plants must be obtained either from a specialist or from a firm such as Thompson & Morgan of Ipswich, which probably has the widest ranging seed list of any organization in the world.
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Thursday, February 19th, 2009
by Lucy Kingston
This is a very different method indeed, and so simple and fool proof that many house plant owners have been using it without even knowing! Each time you pinch out the overgrown shoot of a tradescantia and push the pinched stem end into the soil of the pot to make a new growth, you are taking a stem cutting. Success rates are obviously higher if a greater degree of care is taken, but the process is essentially a simple one that can be carried out almost without failure by the beginner indoor gardener.
Although best results are obtained by early pricking out of young plants into larger pots, this can be a delicate process and if you are at all doubtful or inexperienced it is wiser to let the seedlings grow a little longer before you do this.
Using a pencil or the end of a teaspoon handle, prise out the young plants one by one, very gently, retaining as much of the seed compost as possible around their tender roots, and replant in the same seed compost in another, slightly larger container.
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Sunday, February 1st, 2009
by Linda Jenkins
Receiving an orchid delivery in Los Angeles is a special experience, and anyone who enjoys having flowers or other plants around their home will love it. These delicate tropical flowers are calming and beautiful. They turn even the most ordinary homes into something special. One great way to send these flowers is by shopping online. There are several online store that delivers orchids to Los Angeles – all you have to do is place an online order.
There are some things you need to know before you order orchid delivery to Los Angeles. For example, don’t cut costs when it comes to orchids. Save that for other flowers. Orchids are very delicate and you will want to spend a little more to make sure that the service you are hiring does a good job so that your pretty orchids will get to where they are going in great codition.
The orchids may have come from far away – they are grown in many different countries. It is best that the service you order will move them fast and gently. This is true even in cases where the orchids were grown in hothouses or other places that are worked out to make sure you get the prettiest orchids you can.
Tags: education, flower delivery, flowers, gardening, gifts, howto, orchids, relationships, shopping, style
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Saturday, January 31st, 2009
by John Madison
The products made from bones – bone meal and bone flour, according to how fine the particles are ground – and intended for horticultural use, have to be quite clear of a dreadful disease called anthrax.
The first point to realize is that, in dry conditions, both peat tailings – usually taken to mean the more- coarse pieces that do not pass through a sieve when granulated peat is being prepared from the raw `as dug’ – and bark have a quite prodigious ability to absorb moisture. Even more than they soak it up from whatever surrounds them, they will attract and draw it up and sideways through the soil from some distance away.
You can imagine, therefore, that if this material is dry when put into the soil, it will very quickly soak up all the available moisture, and your plants will go short.
Secondly, both tailings and bark are in the early stages of decomposition (`short’), when the bacteria involved require plenty of oxygen and nitrogen for their own body processes. Dug into the soil, the bacteria quickly exhaust the soil atmosphere, and then turn their attention to the nitrogen in the plant nutrients in the soil solution.
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Friday, January 30th, 2009
by Carolyn Harrison
The English walnut, one of the best known of nut trees, grows in Zones 5-9, but varieties differ in their adaptability to climates. Good choices east of the Rocky Mountains are Broadview, Colby, Hansen, Lake and Metcalfe, and the Carpathian variety from the mountains of Poland. For the northern part of the West Coast good varieties are Concord, Eureka, Franquette and Mayette; for southern parts of the West Coast recommended varieties are Carmelo, Drummond, Payne and Placentia. The trees become 40 to 60 feet tall with an equal spread and usually begin to bear 1 1/2- to 2-inch easy-to-shell nuts four to seven years after planting. Trees live 60 or more years; a mature tree bears 6 bushels of nuts annually.
Cut the top of walnut trees back about halfway at the time of planting. As the tree grows, prune off branches to leave a single trunk and gradually remove the lower limbs so that there is room to walk beneath the branches. Train the tree to have three to five main branches, well spaced, 8 to 12 inches apart, and forming angles greater than 45 degrees with the trunk. Little pruning is necessary thereafter except to remove deadwood and crowded or crossing branches. Pruning should be done in the summer or fall because trees bleed heavily if they are cut in the spring.
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Friday, January 30th, 2009
by Garrett Rivers
The tub size would suffice for a miniature bush type, but is a little small for a weeper. However, it is worth trying if you hear in mind that the small tub size emphasizes the risks of drying out and rapid exhaustion of nutrients due to the frequent watering required, inherent with all plant containers like tubs, troughs and window boxes.
Therefore, you will need to provide a growing medium with better ability to absorb and retain moisture than can be derived from ordinary garden soil. Crock the bottom with a little plaster rubble if you can get it, crushed brick or broken pot, and plant into a compost made up of three parts John Innes No. 2 potting compost, and one part moss peat which has been well moistened.
The peat has to absorb and give moisture, and you don’t want to start with dry peat absorbing moisture from the soil. Frequent watering can cause settling and packing, so you will have to guard against that. Mix in a third to one half part crushed plaster rubble – this is to be preferred for the gypsum content, but failing that, settle for coarse sand.
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Thursday, January 29th, 2009
by Nicholas Benton
At the Parks Dept. nursery where I worked for some time, we produced a vast number of roses every year for the London parks, and it was one of the reasons for some disparaging regard among the gardeners there of the standard of gardening ‘outside in the parks’ compared with the standards set in the nursery that there was always complaint about mildew, whereas it was seldom if ever seen on the roses before they left the nursery.
It was simply put down to ‘rotten looking after as soon as they leave here’. Years after, when I had learned a great deal more than I knew then, I realized that there was most likely another explanation.
The manure is concentrated and, as with any other, it is quite capable of causing scorch. The best policy, therefore, is ‘little and often’. During the second half of March, sprinkle the dry powdery material either generally at about 1 ounce (28g) per square yard (square metre), or a level dessertspoonful – no more – around each rose at 8-12 inches (20- 30cm) distance from the stem, and scratch-hoc into the soil or mulch surface.
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Wednesday, January 28th, 2009
by Paul Herman
It is necessary to describe the aphid reproductive process so that you can ‘know thine enemy’, and understanding how the population explosion occurs explains why control measures have to be very thorough.
A 95 per cent kill achieves little because the remaining 5 per cent quickly replace their lost sisters – with interest. It requires little imagination to appreciate the cumulative effect of so many creatures each sucking the life out of a plant, stunting and weakening it, making the plant suffer, struggle and become less able to resist fungal attack. You may have regarded the little greenfly as not particularly serious, but I hope that this changes your mind, it is an insidious dangerous beast.
Furthermore, as strange as we may find the reproductive process, the feeding procedure is also rather unusual. It consists of inserting a very slender tube into the plant cells, sucking out the liquid sap, absorbing the nutrients it needs, and ’spewing’ or ’spitting’ what is left back down the tube into the plant again.
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009
by Gerry Schremp
About 30 species make up this natural genus of mainly epiphytic plants, which originate from Brazil, Peru and as far north as Panama. Several species are in cultivation, the most popular being Bifrenaria harrisoniae, with its strikingly beautiful colouring.
The monopodial plants vary in size, and, of the 200 or so species, many can be found in cultivation. Among the smallest is Angraecum distichum, a dwarf plant with plaited (braided), herringbonelike foliage, whose oval leaves overlap along a curving rhizome, which rarely exceeds 15cm (Gin) in length. The minute flowers (5mm/Yin wide) are produced singly all over the plant, to resemble stars in a night sky. The giants of the genus include the magnificent A. sesquipedale.
All the plants are evergreen and epiphytic, some of the barbigerum smaller species being known as “twig epiphytes” because they cling to the very extremities of the smallest branches. Bulbophyllums are widely distributed throughout South-east Asia as well as Africa, Australia and tropical America. They must be regarded as one of the most successful genera among the orchids.
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